View Full Version : Quick Engine Swap Question
SillyWabbit
01-11-2001, 08:56 AM
I'm considering doing a V8 swap on my little 2.8 5 speed, and was wondering exactly how practical this sounded. I want to go to somewhere like Pick N' Pull to get just an engine block. Now if I do get just the block, does it matter what kind of engine it's out of (ie. carbed or TPI)? And is that a practical route to go by considering I would also need the ECM and other related shit too? Or would I just need to remember what year and model car it was out of? And info would be great. Thanks in advance.
Burnout Bro
01-11-2001, 04:21 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">how practical this sounded[/B]</font>
I did a V8 to V8 swamp myself and kept all the pollution/computer. It was a mess and took awhile, but everything works good now.
If you want to add all the pollution/computer and try to keep it street legal, I would have to say just get a V8 (car) and dont worry about swamping engines.
Unless this is a project car and you have alot of money and alot time then it can be done.
Jeremy
01-11-2001, 06:20 PM
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by SillyWabbit:
Now if I do get just the block, does it matter what kind of engine it's out of (ie. carbed or TPI)?</font>
Nope, all small blocks are the same regardless of induction.. so you can put TPI on a block that was originally carbed, etc etc etc..
Catch me on ICQ if you wanna talk about what's realistic and what isn't.. I guess it kinda depends.. I already have like $3500 into my new engine.. I'm feeling poor, lol.. but it's worth it.
SillyWabbit
01-11-2001, 09:59 PM
Fuck, I hate making these decisions! I've already put money and shit into my V6 for interior stuff (ie. stereo stuff and some engine stuff with the tune-up), and the interior is in good shape and the body is nearly perfect other than paint and a couple rust spots that need to be ground down and removed. I know that all my stereo stuff could be removed and replaced with the crap it came with, so I'd be able to keep the majority of what I'd want with the car. But I just can't seem to find the V8 I want. If it's a decent price, it's got lots of mileage and it's an LG4 or an L03, either that or the body and interior are shit. Plus I just got finished paying my car loan for this car, and really don't want to have to take another one out. http://www.3rdgen.org/ubb/mad.gif It sucks being a poor student!
Blown WS6
01-15-2001, 07:03 PM
Its not too difficult but I'm sure you can find a good V8 TPI car SOMEwhere!
But if not then just talk to me and Jeremy and we can hook ya up on the info. http://www.3rdgen.org/ubb/biggrin.gif
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Timmy
02-12-2001, 11:15 PM
you can find a small block anywhere! And for cheap too if all you want is A block.
Just find a dirt cheap block (that is in good condition) have it machined and build it.
I'm sure if you're just looking for a V8, any kind of V8, you could probably build one for like $2,000-2,500. And get decent performance out of it. Buy a wiring kit, find a TPI unit, and slap that shit on there!
Dont i make it sound so easy http://www.3rdgen.org/ubb/smile.gif
[This message has been edited by Timmy (edited 02-13-2001).]
SillyWabbit
02-16-2001, 07:36 AM
Yeah, you make it sound so easy! I've been looking thru Jegs and stuff and it looks like I could spend a lot of money on building up an engine. Especially in the intake area. That StreetRam and SuperRam seem to be calling my name. But the StreetRam says it's legal in 49 states, and I'm guessing CA is the only state it's not legal in. I dunno, I have to wait until I get any expedable income to buy the block. I was thinking about Pick-N-Pull cause just a block there is something around $100 plus a core charge. Granted, I would have to pull the engine myself, but hey, it'd be worth it.
[This message has been edited by SillyWabbit (edited 02-16-2001).]
SillyWabbit
02-16-2001, 07:53 AM
Actually this would be my plan for an engine build up. It would take a hella long time to get it done, unless of course I took the Jeremy route and got myself a loan, but I'm not quite ready to do that yet.
1) Get a 305 or 350 block; 350 preferred.
2) Bore whatever I get out as much as possible for either a 310 or 355; if I got the 350, I'd consider making it a 383 (if possible?).
3) Other misc. rebuilding and performance machine work.
4) Build an engine from the block up.
-Forged NOS pistons, connecting rods, and crank. Also some good rings.
-Some 50 state legal aftermarket heads; I was thinking Edelbrock here. Maybe some porting and polishing of the heads if it's necessary.
-An aftermarket cam kit.
-Hardened pushrods, an upgraded valve train, 1.6 Roller rockers.
-A billet aluminum underdrive pulley set.
-An aftermarket intake, or a stock TPI setup that is ported and polished, depending on price.
-Some aftermarket higher lb. injectors would be good.
-A 58MM throttle body.
That's about all I can think of right now, and when and if I go ahead with this plan, I don't count on it being finished in a long time due to money and time constraints. But hey, everybody's gotta have goals, right?
'67 327
03-01-2001, 03:28 AM
Yep count on that last state being CA. If it doesn't have a C.A.R.B. certification then don't plan on it in CA.
About building a block you got options and lots of em. The more displacement is always better. So go with a 350, simple and cheap (probly the same as a POS 305) Now you can get a short block 350 from Goodwrench for probly a grand (without heads) $1300 with heads whole deal.
Here's where I make it tough for you, you can get 6" rods/pistons VS the 5.7"ers. Great for high compression NOS usage as long as you get forged stuff.
Now 67 and earlier (I think down to '65 not sure though) 327 blocks have a forged steel small diameter crank. Add your steel rods and pistons and there you go. (I have a 67 327 block in the garage without cam)
Personally I'd go with LIGHT nitrous useage so you can stay emisions legal unless you plan on moving. Heavy nitrous use and you'll need stuff that will make you fail emisions like a high duration/lift cam. But nitrous is not real nessecary to make great power with chevy blocks. (feel like a broken record here) People think I need a blower or NOS to go fast. Nope, Balance grasshopper. I've seen a fat cam in a 350 with cast Iron heads (10:1) smoke big blocks while going sideways down the street not getting optimum traction cause we had shitty tires. Gears/torque converter/cam/heads. Sure a 383 would be nice but you got $3500 to get it done? Let alone try to pass emissions with a beast like that in CA. You could go with a 400 SBC bored to 406 or leave it at 400 so you can freshen it up later.
Vortec heads are cheap too but not sure what CA wants as far as emissions. IMHO go get a first or second gen and throw a stroker small block in it or a 327 revver with NOS. All you need to pass the check is a smog pump with the headers($600) or exhaust manifolds.
What would I do? Take off the emissions equipment every year and put it back on. Good thing I only need the sticker every 5years.
SillyWabbit
03-02-2001, 08:10 AM
Well, smog here in CA is required every two years for registration. They tell you when it is necessary. And how exactly can they tell whether or not your internal components are smog legal (ie. cam, pistons, etc...)? All I want to build is a car that passes visual inspection on the outside, and then has the ability to pass the sniffer. But of course if I can get the hook up with some kind of smog place, then I just might have a chance at some real mods. The guy my friend goes to for smog only puts a sniffer into one tailpipe of his '89LX, so maybe I can get a hookup with someone like that.
Jeremy
03-02-2001, 09:51 AM
They wouldn't know what's inside your engine.. just make sure it runs clean to pass the sniffer. You need to worry about external things being CARB exempted.. like the heads, induction, exhaust, etc etc.
And I dunno what the laws there are for v6 to v8 swaps.
r383scamaro
03-02-2001, 10:58 AM
i have done the swap my self and had fun doing so learned alot from it the only thing i had problems with was finding the right header and moving the motor mount ......as far as fuel pump u can use ur in the car just be sure u hook up the return line befor the regulater and toss ur comp ....have fun and if i can be more help mail me
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