Alpine Subs

[KuruptGTA]

Type E from alpine is the "lowest " level sub that they produce. It's cheap and efficient, it kills anything Wal*Mart can sell for around the same price. I'm not sure if they even make these things anymore... :shrug:

Type S is the medium level. It's can handle a little more power than the E, reinforced cone, spider etc.
Frequency Response: 26Hz – 1kHz
• Kevlar Reinforced Pulp Cone
• High Excursion Tapered Half-Roll Santoprene® Surround
• Mirrored Progressive with Perimeter Venting
• Compound Radius Curve Pole Geometry
• Heavy Gauge Steel Basket
• Extended Dual Flare Pole Vent
• High Strength Brass Voice Coil Bobbin
• One-Side layout Design, Heavy Duty 8ga. Push Terminals
• Magnetically Optimized Motor Structure

Type R is serious. If you're going for SPL (sound pressure level) I'd hook up one (or two) of these bad boys. They've got the same cone as the S, but the spyder is redesigned and it's got a cast aluminum frame.
Frequency Response:
24Hz – 500Hz
• Kevlar Reinforced Pulp Cone
• Custom Cast Aluminum Frame with Integrated Perimeter Venting and Heat Transfer Plate
• Dual Voice Coil Design
• Mirrored Progressive Nomex ® Spiders with Reinforced Layer Integrated Tinsel Leads
• Compound Radius Curve (CRC) Motor Structure
• Multi-Stage Thermal Management System
• HAMR Surround and Concealed Mount Gasket
• Aluminum Airflow Motor Cover
• Insert Push Terminals with One-sided Layout

Type X owns all! It'll compare with a JL 7 or the MTX RFL. It's responses are a bit lower than the Type R, but for competition you can't beat it. It's upgrades are listed below.
Frequency Response: 23Hz – 200Hz
• Carbon Fiber/Aluminum Honeycomb/Kevlar Reinforced Pulp Cone
• Ultra High Excursion Multi-Roll Injection Moulded Santoprene®
• Mirrored Progressive with Perimeter Venting
• Compound Radius Curve
• Cast Aluminum Internal Stacking, Vented Leg/Spider Landing with HTP
• Extended Dual Flare Pole Vent
• High Strength Brass Voice Coil Bobbin
• Machined Insert Blocks with Housing, VC Connection Jumper System
• Copper Shorting Sleeves with Thermal Coupling Plate



Sorry for the overkill. I'm an Alpine speaker enthusiast! But if you've got the $ to spend on an amp to run the Type R, go for it! I recommend at least 500 watts RMS. If you purchase a dual four ohm voice coil sub, you'll be able to bridge it to 2 ohms and really maximize the capabilites of any amp. Just make sure when you get an amp that it has ratings for 2 ohm power. If it says 2 ohm stable, this isn't a good sign. Any company can "rate" a sub at whatever they want, it doesn't mean, however, it's meant to be pushed at that rate for any long period of time.

[KuruptGTA]

unlocked. :)

[vern350]

how big of any an amp would you need for 2 type R's. I just bought an 86 iroc z and have one type R already. I want to make a box for 2 12" The subs will be 4ohms. I still undecied on what type of box still.

[KuruptGTA]

Well, that depends entirely on what you want to be your final product. How much are you willing to spend on an amp? What Ohms, how many watts will you need? What brands are you considering?

I don’t mind helping people out, but I want to know that you’re at least committed enough to do a little research on your own. J

If you’re going to run 2 type R’s, you’ll need at least 800 watts. A good amp to go with would be any “class D” from a reputable manufacturer. By reputable I DO NOT mean Jensen or something they sell at Wal*Mart. MTX, Fosgate, Kicker and PPI are examples of reputable manufacturers.

Another factor will be Ohms. How many voice coils does your current Type R have? What Ohms are they?

Finally, consider the fact that a good Class D amp will need 4 ga wire or better. This can really run you into the ground considering all of the terminals and wire you’ll have to buy. You definitely want to run a capacitor of some sort with this voltage drain and probably an inline circuit breaker. Check out my install for more advice.

After you’ve decided on an amp, post back here and I’ll help you further.

[vern350]

the subs are dual voice coils and are 4 ohms. I probably end up bitting the bullet and getting theMRD - M1005 alpine amp. I have a 800 watt peak/400rms at 2 ohms/200rms at 4 ohms sony amp right now for the one 12. I'm stll undecided on how i'll wire them. Either 2 ohms or 4 ohms. Could you explain the difference between the two. Thanks KuruptGTA for the help.

[KuruptGTA]

2 ohms will be more powerful than 4 ohms, that's the “ohms law.” The lower the ohm level you are running at, the more power your amp will put out. Same can be said with subs, the lower the ohm level the subs can handle (theoretically) the more power they are capable of utilizing.

To further clarify, just because an amp says that it can distribute power at 2 ohms, doesn't necessarily mean that it can distribute at a 2 ohm level for extended periods of time. The longer you hold and amp (or sub) at a low ohm level, the more heat it will generate. If not properly grounded, the amp (or subs) will either malfunction or continue to function to a point that it screws up your electrical system.

To compensate for this you’ll need to run the biggest gauge wire your amp will accept. Also, make sure that your ground isn’t over 1 foot in length; the shorter the better.

If you’ve got 2 dual voice coil (DVC) subs each at 4 ohms, you should be able to bridge them so that your amp will be running at 4 ohms. You might want to see if you can get 2 DVC 2 Ohm subs. You’ll be able to bridge that combination to 2 ohms.

Sorry if this isn’t clarified, please let me know if you’re still confused.