View Full Version : sub frames...
raptor3d
09-17-2002, 06:19 PM
i'm thinkin of getting weld in subframes... wondering if you all have any suggestions regarding which ones to go with as far as price/performance goes...
Jaysz28
09-18-2002, 04:35 AM
Spohn is highly recommended. Keny Brown makes a nice set as well. I am using South Side Machine SFC's and am not happywith the install. Whatever connectors you decide on, they will only be as good as the installation. Weld in is the best way to go. Just make sure you have a competent shop do the work.
raptor3d
09-20-2002, 11:14 PM
yeah after having posted the message I saw all the other subframes posts in the other sections, sorry for the repost. but thanx for the info... i have a friend with some BMRs... they "tuck under real nice" (haha yeah.. RIGHT..) but we might have access to the materials to build our own subframes based off of their design... ;) not sure if that'll pan out or not (we have the welding stuff, access to the steel n misclaneous other thingz..) but yeah, thanx.
Corey
09-23-2002, 08:43 PM
I have the BMR's on my car. Definitely an improvement, and they do stay out of the way pretty well, but now I wish I had gotten some that tie to the tranny crossmember for even more strength. The passenger side one did rattle on the frame when I first got them but after a couple of weeks it knocked a very small dent in the floor pan and they don't make any noise now.
XLR8TORZ28
10-02-2002, 02:37 PM
If you have your choice of box steel or tube steel, get the box steel. The box steel is alot more rigid. And if you have a choice of weld in or bolt on, get the weld in, and get them welded on right.
raptor3d
10-02-2002, 04:44 PM
odd, I'd have thought tubular would be stronger.... I guess it has to do with the type of force excerted (spelling *lol*) on the frames... is it more twist or bend (in the subframes, not the actual frame, cuz the frame suffers from twist that much i know..)
XLR8TORZ28
10-03-2002, 02:54 PM
Tubular steel is better for impact from end to end
---> oooooooooo <------ or reverse...... it is also lighter.... that is why most rear control arms are tubular... but for severely modifieds cars they need protection from side to side deflection also that is why there are box or sqaure steel offered too ... you have also seen that the aftermarket track arms are tube because there is not much side to side flex on those.... just forward to rear ...... In my opinion if you are going to make an investment and make it permanent on your car , get the better option....
JohnB
02-08-2003, 02:05 AM
I myself bought a set of bolt-in connectors from Competition Engineering and I'm glad I didn't weld them in. I just think that it gives you more flexibility if you are going to make more changes to your car. You can also weld them in later on. :eek:
nightrider
02-09-2003, 09:18 PM
Yeah but when you bolt them in, the holes the bolts go through get stretched into slots and then they don't work anymore. whatever changes you plan to make to your car, they shouldn't involve removing subframe connectors that you bought so you didn't twist the thing apart.
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