Slow down! I can't keep up with all the posts!

[Jim85IROC]

:zzz:

[87IROC Z]

:lmao: Ill help ya out. Ive got a question for ya. Do u have or know of any boxes that will hold 2 12's and still let me use my t-top bag? Also i would need a good place to mount the amp.

[Jim85IROC]

No. 12s or t-tops. Take your pick. :D

[Newsance]

I've got a tiny ghetto box with my 12's that let me put the t-tops behind it...

[Jim85IROC]

that's because it's a tiny ghetto box. :finger:

[Camaro_hunter_d]

Originally posted by 87IROC Z
:lmao: Ill help ya out. Ive got a question for ya. Do u have or know of any boxes that will hold 2 12's and still let me use my t-top bag? Also i would need a good place to mount the amp. You can mount the amp behind the rear seat. Custom make some boxes. Have them build up even witht he rear deck. That would leave the rest of the deck free for the T Tops.

[jawzforlife]

HI. Jim.
I just relized you modorate this board, Doesnt seam like alot to moderate. I'll try to think up some questions for you.

-JAWZ

[Thrashdrums]

Hey I had that same issue on my 91 firebird w/ T-Tops, if you look at the offered sub enclosures for our hatch back-THEY SUCK. My friend has one in his non-T-Top bird and I don't like it. First off it's raised above the level of the hatch flat part behind the seat so it's in better view of anyone peering in your hatch (assuming your windows arent tinted). Secondly it wastes space. Thirdly most are made for 12"s which are cool i guess if you're bumping rap and wanna BOOM, but I listen to a lot of metal and like quick double bass. So 10"s are my fav, also having an F-Body, with massive hatch glass, t-top glass/acrilic (flat surface) and the windshielf and side windows concaved as they are, it's a virtual DOME. Basically, the rare occassion Iw anna show a thug up, and i bump some rap mine hits hard as hell anyways, because of all the rebound and my car being air tight, it's hard to close the doors if the windows and tops are shut-lol

The Solution: a custom box, actually I did the alternative I didn't even make mine a box, it was uneccessary, first:
I placed my Kenwood 600watt amp in the bottom of the hatch, then i covered the back part with DynoMat. I cut a board to the size that would fit down into the trunk but rest on each of those ledges on each side of the trunk. I used a pretty thick board i am not positive on the dementions w/out checking and i am lazy but it was prolly 1" or so.... Then cut out for the speakers and shave a little more, then i carpeted it to match the hatch carpet.
I was going to box in the rest around the speakers but i wanted to test it so far, and it slamms, like, there's really no need if you cut it right, it's a VERY tight fit and with the carpet and dynomat it's pretty tight. The board and subs sit a few inches below the main flat part where my T-Tops strap in their bag, so it still hits when they're down. Although it sounds like 25% better with the top on and 25% more better then that with the windos up, just everything is tighter, but it'll still slam no matter what if you have good subs and a good amp.

Key to a killer system is the wiring and having good connections, and the wires seperated so there's no interference. Capacitors can help...

I run a Aiwa CDC-MP32 CD player, it's ddecent enuff has the motorized flip over faceplate and plays mp3 cd's, steering wheel remote and line in jack on the front. It rarely skips when i drive hard, and/or if my cd's are old/scratched-which most of them are-lol
I have Pioneer 180 watt 5x7"? 3-ways i think in the front and 6x9"4-ways in the back, MTX Blue Thunder (2) (older versions) in the hatch and a 600watt kenwood amp. I have been contemplating swapping cd players and maybe getting an amp for the component speakers.... they could hit harder i know...
Lemme know any questions or comments: Aim: JoweeBXJ
offensivestudio@cinci.rr.com


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[biff85ta]

Originally posted by Jim85IROC
No. 12s or t-tops. Take your pick. :D

Don`t you build boxes that will allow for twelves an t-tops yourself :D